There are two big gorges to visit on Charnley, each about an hour from camp. So that's 2 hours west of the GRR - 'real' Kimberley savannah country. The first had a lovely hike to reach the rim and it was massive - Grenville Gorge. Nearby were Lilly Pools which were two idyllic ponds set in sandstone walls. The other was Dilly Gorge which was a very open rocky gorge with several large pools. Driving through the property is great and very different to the normal road experience. We rested all afternoon which was nice then at dusk went on the local walk from camp, which had lots of birdlife and a theatrically lit Boab tree in the sunset. They gave a talk on their wildlife conservation efforts in the evening. The 3 biggest threats are fire, feral cattle and feral cats! Cats are the hardest to deal with.
Sunday, June 27, 2021
Bells and Donkeys
Started the day at Bell Gorge. Very nice, rocky and popular! Headed onwards through several deepish creek crossings to Charnley River Station, via a small servo with mobile reception where I posted the last three posts. Charnley has many gates to negotiate and some crossings, one of which had a cute baby crocodile keeping watch. After settling in we visited Donkey Pools, where we could have swum, but at least put our feet in. Then we went to the lookout over the property - huge! Charley River Station is owned and managed by the Australian Wildlife Conservancy which we learnt a little about tonight over the campfire - a very interesting group doing very worthy things.
Friday, June 18, 2021
Lennard and Leopold
A relatively relaxing day. We started walking along the edge of the 'reef' near the campsite - huge scale. Headed up the GRR to Lennard River Gorge. Its a 2km walk each way on a pretty, rocky path with lots of birdlife by a creek. The falls at the end were great but distant and yes, I kicked myself for not taking the drone! The road went over the King Leopold Ranges with some nice views, until our next overnight at Bell Gorge. We're only staying one night so have our 'quick camp setup' implemented with the awning. We've spent the afternoon chilling and will visit the gorge early tomorrow (another 10km up the track).
Getting Wet in the Dark!
Two great activities today. First we went for the full Winjana Gorge walk which was excellent. It has world significance as a Devonian Reef, rising from the floor of an ancient ocean 380 million years ago (the Age of the Fishes).The gorge was then eroded through the exposed reef. Many freshwater crocodiles were lounging about on the banks. Second, we swam (!!) through Tunnel Creek in Tunnel Cave, about 35kms south of Winjana Gorge. It was awesome and a real life experience. We had to wade along the creek in the cave and swim once, wearing head torches as it was often pitch black! At least they reflected the eyes of the crocodiles in the shallows at the sides! We saw aboriginal rock art out the other end. [The cave photos are of my iPhone screen, because I didn't want to risk the Samsung phone getting wet (as it has a cracked screen)]. We finished off with a short walk back into the Gorge for sunset viewing (and a selfie!).
Starting the GRR
Started the Gibb River Road today. Quite a few logistics to finalise before leaving Broome, but not before seeing the groovy lookout toward Roebuck Bay. The water is very blue up here! Past through Derby (not pronounced 'Darby') with the only highlight the amazing, huge Boab tree once used as a makeshift prison. Winjana Gorge is incredibly picturesque. We had a quick look at sunset. Entry via a gap in cliff!
Tuesday, June 15, 2021
Geikie Gorge to Broome
Early morning cruise down Geikie Gorge. Gorgeous! During the wet season the water level is at the top of the white stone - wow. Several crocodiles in photogenic pose. False sightings referred to as `logodiles`. Cane Toads have been in the Kimberley now for 18 months - the guide said 70 crocodiles were seen belly up after eating them! Long drive to Broome Bird Observatory for overnight on the shores of Roebuck Bay. Architectural treat at a Willare Bridge Roadhouse on the way.
That's not on the tourist brochures!
Went for morning 'mangrove walk' tour at Broome Bird Observatory. Squishy. But at least we were wearing provided 'mud boots'. Drove into Broome. Central area undergoing substantial works to improve streets. Had lovely Vietnamese lunch in 'Chinatown', but otherwise underwhelmed. Really enjoyed the local historical museum and 'Town Beach' precinct. Had fabulous ginger beer and mango beer (!) at Matso's Brewery. Cable Beach is so busy at sunset but the foreshore is very well set up and festive - very impressive. Beyond the main beach headland is where I was told you could drive and find an excluded part of the beach to see the sunset with the camel riding tourists walking along (we didn't do this). We've all seen the romantic promotional pictures of camels on the beach. So we walked over the headland to look and couldn't believe it - a traffic jam and 'parking lot' along the beach with tourists on camels walking between them! It's bizarre. After sunset the camels are led back behind the resorts from which they came.
Sunday, June 13, 2021
Ride of the Valkyries!
Our first helicopter flight! It was awesome Flew over the Bungles for 30m seeing gorges, cliffs and `bee hives`. Otherwise it was a big driving day to Fitzroy Crossing.
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