Buenos Aires (Pt 1)

We've just spent a week in Buenos Aires and we were very impressed. It's a grand city. The golden years were from 1880 to 1930, when it was the 5th richest city in the world. It consciously styled itself on Paris, with many French architects coming across to design buildings. But the Depression put an end to it. Despite this, the older qualities have been built upon over the subsequent years to create a city of significant style and substance. The original historic neighbourhood (San Telmo) is where we stayed a few nights. We also had an Airbnb at the Recoleta neighbourhood, which is the most Belle Epoque in the City. The wealthy residents of San Telmo moved 'out' of the city in the later 1800's to escape fever and disease  - establishing palaces/mansions in the Recoleta and Palermo neighbourhoods. 

The Pope was also visiting when we were there, and his digs were around the corner in a former palace. The density of living is quite high. Most streets in Recoleta are lined with 10 to 12 storey buildings, but there are plenty of large street trees so it has a good feel to it. Here are some pics....

Most of San Telmo has original cobblestone streets (now heritage protected in situ) and there are a significant number of heritage buildings in the neighbourhood...

San Telmo also has a vibrant market from the late 1800's going strong...

We moved across to the Recoleta neighbourhood to a great apartment in a genuine Belle Epoque building. Our apartment is the first floor above the the grey car...

Opposite our apartment...

Scattered around the neighbourhood are palaces from the golden years...

Including the Popes digs...

The Recoleta neighbourhood is named after the Franciscan Recoleta Monastery, built in the early 1700's. It was once in fields outside the city, but is now still in place in the inner city area. The Monks were expelled in 1882 and their garden turned into a cemetery. That cemetery is now a tourist attraction, as it contains a huge number of astonishing mausoleums set along tree-lined stone paths, belonging to wealthy and connected Buenos Aires residents, including most former Presidents (and Eva Peron)...

Right next to the city, is a fantastic natural reserve which is large and well used. It has great birdlife and lengthy boardwalks and pathways (some detailed pics at the end)...

The Palermo neighbourhood is pretty groovy and more low rise, with some great street art...

We visited the Botanical Gardens and a Decorative Arts museum, set in a former place. Both were great...

The Pope was a big deal - they were expecting over 1 million people to his mass on Sunday, which I expect they achieved...

The old port has been transformed into a new urban neighbourhood and it's very well done...

Statue in front of the main Post Office building in French style...

There is a pedestrian mall running a very long way through the main part of the city. This is one of the crossings....

Here are a few random pics from my proper camera (not the iPhone) of birds and critters in the reserve, adjoining the city...